Paul's cooking .......

Woks and Stir Fry Pots

• Traditional Chinese woks have rounded bottoms and two side-handles. Most western-style woks and stir-fry pans have flat bottoms and one long handle.
• Round bottom woks are suitable only on gas cooktops and must be stabilized with a metal ring support. Flat bottom woks may be used on both gas and electric burners.
• Woks are primarily for stir-frying, but you may also use them for steaming, braising and deep frying.
• Woks and stir-fry pans must be made of good conductive metals such as carbon steel, cast iron and aluminum. Nonstick woks should have a base pan made of thick gauge, heat-conducting materials.
• Carbon steel and cast-iron woks must be seasoned well and should be dried thoroughly after washing.

Introduction 

Woks are the traditional pans of South East Asian cookery, but during the past generation they have come into common use in the  western kitchen. Home cooks in this country may use the classic Chinese style wok, which is rounded at the bottom, but more often choose a flat bottom wok. The differences have to do with stovetop design. The Chinese use open-topped braziers; the bottom of the wok sits inside. The pan is wider at the top, to prevent its falling into the heat source. Its rounded shape enables the ingredients to fall to the center, where the heat is concentrated. 

Traditional vs. Western Style 

Western cooktops are flatter; the wok sits on top. Round bottomed vessels are not stable on these burners and should only be used on gas ranges, and only with a supporting metal ring that mimics the Chinese brazier. In addition, the coil or surface of an electric range only reaches a tiny portion of the rounded bottom of a traditional wok and does not provide adequate heat. Flat bottoms are more suitable because their larger surface area has more contact with the heat. They are also more stable. 

Another difference between traditional woks and western style flat bottom woks is the handle. Chinese woks usually come with two loop handles on the side. Most westeners are accustomed to pots with one long handle, so many of the newer style pans have a single handle; some also have a short helper handle on the opposite side.  

Uses

Woks are tremendously versatile. The Chinese make good use of them not only for stir-frying, but for steaming, braising and deep-frying foods. Again, western cooking habits are different. We prefer to limit wok use to stir-frying. For this reason the stir-fry pan was created: it is typically smaller and designed for a specific purpose. But if you have a larger wok, rather than restrict it to stir-frying, you may want to reconsider its usefulness for steaming broccoli, deep-frying shrimp or chicken nuggets, stewing beef, braising meatballs or cabbage. 

Material 

Because stir-frying involves cooking small pieces of food over high heat, a wok or stir-fry pan must be made of good heat conducting metals. Carbon steel and cast iron are standard for traditional versions. These must be seasoned well so that cooking oil can be kept to a minimum. Seasoning also prevents rusting. Be sure to dry the pans thoroughly after each use. 

Anodized aluminum and stainless steel lined aluminum also perform well and are the materials used for many of the newer western style woks and stir-fry pans. Nonstick is suitable only if the underlying pan is made of thick, heavy, heat-conducting materials. 

Size 

Some woks and stir-fry pans come with a cover. If not, it is a good idea to buy one for the times that you will be using the pan for methods other than stir-frying. A 25 cm stir-fry pan will let you prepare a single recipe of stir-fried chicken; larger 30 -35 cm pans provide room for larger stir-fries and for cooking by other methods such as deep-frying and braising. 

Saute Pans

• A sauté pan is a wide, flat, straight-sided frying pan designed for prolonged cooking.  
• The best sauté pans are made of metals that conduct heat quickly, efficiently and evenly: lined copper, stainless steel-wrapped aluminum and anodized aluminum.
• Nonstick surfaces are less appropriate for sautéing.
• A good sauté pan should have a long handle and should come with a lid.
• Available sizes range between one and seven quarts, but three to five quart pans are most useful

  

Introduction

 

The French verb "sauter" means "to jump". When you sauté, you cook food in a small amount of fat and keep things in motion either by shaking the pan or tossing or stirring the food, so the ingredients don’t stick, scorch or dry out. 

A sauté pan is designed to brown and crisp the surfaces of foods. It should be wide because ingredients need room to brown well. The pan also must be flat, so you can move it easily over the burner. 

Uses 

This pan is ideal for recipes that require additional cooking after the ingredients are browned such as a chicken fricassée or osso buco. The depth and straight sides accommodate sauces and other embellishments that may accompany the sautéed ingredients. 

 

Materials

To assure that the ingredients are properly browned, a sauté pan must also be made of heavy gauge, heat-conductive metal. Copper is the best performer because it picks up heat rapidly and cools off quickly when the pan is removed from the burner. This responsiveness is important for delicate foods – like fish – that might become tough or dry if subjected to high temperatures for even a moment too long.

But there are also excellent sauté pans made from stainless steel-wrapped aluminum and anodized aluminum. These materials transmit heat well and they are less expensive than copper. Regular stainless steel is suitable for sauté pans if there is a thick aluminum or copper heat-giving disk across the entire bottom of the pan. Disks that don’t cover the entire width are likely to develop hot spots; they also do not provide adequate heat. 

Nonstick surfaces—even the highest quality—are less appropriate for sautéing because the materials from which they are made cut down on heat transfer from the base pan and can't withstand prolonged high heat. Obviously, you may prepare delicious food in a nonstick sauté pan, but traditional cookware will do a better job. 

Cast iron, plain or enamel-coated, is the best choice for one particular kind of American pan known as a "chicken fryer" or "deep sauté pan". Chicken fryers have a short, stubby handle and a lip for spilling off fat. This metal takes in heat slowly, but holds it well, which is perfect for frying crispy-brown fried chicken. But cast iron reacts with acidic ingredients such as wine, tomatoes and lemon juice, making it unsuitable for sautéed dishes, which often include these ingredients. 

 Design 

Traditional sauté pans have a single, long handle. Because you move the pan so much when you sauté, the handle should be sturdy and comfortable so you can maneuver the pan easily. Some large pans have a second "helper handle". Even though you may use a potholder, it is important that the handle stay cool, too. Look for metal handles that are hollowed in some way or that are made of a different metal than the pan itself. "Phenolic" handles stay cool but you may not use the pan under the broiler. Wooden handles stay the coolest, but are not oven or dishwasher safe. 

In France a sauté pan is called a sauteuse, but in the United States, "sauteuse" often refers to a pan with two short side handles, similar to a low casserole or Dutch Oven. Some professional chefs use these pans in place of a sauté pan because the compact handles save on cooktop space and can fit easily in the oven; however, we recommend a traditional long-handled pan for home cooks.

Sauce Pans

• Saucepans should be made of materials that are excellent conductors of heat, like copper or aluminum. Stainless steel is suitable if it has an aluminum or copper core or a thick, wide aluminum or copper disk bonded to the bottom.  
• Nonstick saucepans are fine for reheating foods, cooking plain vegetables and for sticky ingredients, but not for sophisticated sauces.
• Classic saucepans have straight sides but Windsor Pans, for reducing sauces, have flared sides. Sauciers are rounded to make it easier to mix ingredients and to brown foods before adding liquids.
• A saucepan must be heavy for its size and made of sturdy materials that resist denting and warping.
• Handles should be comfortable and securely attached. The best saucepans have handles that stay relatively cool.

Introduction 

Saucepans are culinary workhorses, used to cook everything from classic haute cuisine sauces to oatmeal. Because they perform so many different functions, you’ll need several types, in several sizes.  

 

Material 

Saucepans must be made of materials that are excellent conductors of heat. Copper is the most responsive to heat and is the first choice for sophisticated sauces. Copper, however, interacts with food and must be lined with tin, stainless steel or nickel. A tin lining will give you the greatest heat conductivity but from time to time wears out and must be replaced. A copper saucespan is ideal for delicate sauces because it not only conducts heat effectively but it also losses heat quickly when the pan is removed from the heat---a great advantage with heat sensitive recipes. If you make sauces regularly, it’s helpful to have one copper saucepan reserved for sauce work. 

Aluminum heats well too, but acidic or alkaline foods can cause it to corrode and give food an off taste. Anodized aluminum has been treated to protect it from corrosion. You can use it with any ingredient but it is not dishwasher safe and its dark color can make it difficult to see subtle color changes in the foods you are cooking. 

Stainless steel saucepans are the most versatile, but to heat effectively, they must have an aluminum or copper core or thick aluminum disk at the bottom. 

Nonstick saucepans come in handy for preparing simple foods like vegetables, for reheating foods like soup and especially for sticky foods like oatmeal or rice. These pans don’t respond to heat as well as other pans and are not recommended for fine sauces. 

Design

Although saucepans are usually straight-sided, some take a different shape for specific purposes. Windsor pans have flared sides that expose more of a food’s surface area, for better reduction of liquids. Sauciers have wide, rounded bottoms. The rounded edges make it easy to stir foods like pudding, whose ingredients might otherwise become stuck in the corners of a standard saucepan. The wide bottom provides room to brown ingredients before adding liquid to the pan. 

Saucepans (like all stove-top pans) must have a perfectly flat bottom and sit on the burner without wobbling. They should also be heavy and durable, and resist denting and warping. However, they should still be easy to lift. Avoid thin gauge, cheap aluminum pots ---they dent easily and develop hot spots that can ruin food. 

Handle 
A saucepan’s handle must attach securely, preferably with rivets or thick, deep screws. Although it is always wise to use a potholder when you cook, the handle should stay as cool as possible. To cut down on heat, handles should be made of materials that are different from the pan or be hollowed in some way. Phenolic handles stay cool but are not broiler-proof. Wooden handles stay coolest but cannot be used in the oven, except at very low temperatures, and they are not dishwasher safe. 

Saucepans usually come with lids. A good lid should sit on top of the pot snugly so it won’t rattle during cooking. Look for large knobs that stay cool or loops that leave room for potholders.

Cookware Sets

  
  

• The best cookware  should allow the user to get the most use from the least equipment    
• Matching pots and pans are attractive but you should supplement a set with miscellaneous, non-matching pieces made for specific purposes.
• Stainless steel is the most versatile material for cookware; anodized aluminum and non-stick pots and pans are also suitable.
• Be sure the set is made of sturdy materials that resist denting and warping. Handles should be comfortable and securely attached.
• A set can save lots of money. But buy the highest quality affordable. Cheap, flimsy cookware isn’t efficient and falls apart quickly. 

  

Introduction 

Cookware sets are worth considering because they offer unbelievable savings. But to be sure the set really is a bargain, make sure the pieces provide a variety of functions and don’t duplicate each other. The most basic is a set with a saucepan with lid and a frying pan. A soup pot is usually worthwhile, as is a straight-sided sauté pan or a chef’s pan for sautéing, braising and stewing. 

Be wary of sets with several sizes of the same kind of pan -- few of us need three omelet pans, and the like. Avoid sets with odd pieces that aren't useful. Consider what is being offered rather than merely counting the number of pieces at a particular price. 

Additions to Sets 

Matching pots and pans are attractive and they also tend to be less distracting than miscellaneous pieces. But no single kind of cookware does the best job at every kind of cooking, so consider supplementing a set with individual pieces of different materials such as a stirfry pan (for quickly-cooked vegetables), enameled saucepan (for tomato sauce) or cast-iron skillet (for fried chicken). 

Material

Cookware sets are intended for all-purpose use. That’s why it is important to buy one made of materials you can subject to a variety of cooking methods. Stainless steel is the most versatile -- it doesn’t pit or corrode and doesn’t react with acidic or alkaline ingredients. But stainless steel doesn’t conduct heat too well, so be sure the set you buy comes with good heat-conducting features – an aluminum core or a thick, aluminum or copper disk at the bottom of the pan. 

Anodized aluminum is another good choice for a set, although it can be difficult to see inside the dark pans and they aren’t dishwasher safe. High-quality non-stick cookware made of good heat conducting, thick gauge aluminum is suitable too, but remember that non-stick usually doesn’t heat as well as regular cookware. 

Design 

Whatever the type or brand of cookware you choose, it must be well designed and safe to use. Look for well-balanced pots and pans that are heavy enough to prevent denting or warping. Be sure the handles are comfortable to hold and strong enough to support and maneuver the pan easily. Check to make sure the handles are attached securely, either with rivets or sturdy screws. Check the lids too -- be sure they fit snugly and have knobs or handles that are large and easy to grip. 

These hallmarks of good quality come at a price. But it pays to buy the best cookware you can afford. Cheaply made pots and pans don’t perform well and deteriorate easily. In the long run you pay more for them. Buying good cookware in sense-making sets can prove to be very valuable.

Spaghetti alle Vongole (Spaghetti with Clams)

 

In our house a simple but delicious dish such as Spaghetti alle Vongole causes considerable divisions. I prefer it "bianco" (with no tomatoes) whilst my wife and children prefer it "rosso" (with tomatoes). I’ll leave it for you to decide which one I end up cooking more often!

You dear reader, however have the luxury to choose whichever one you prefer.

This recipe serves 4.

Ingredients

2 kg small clams, such as palourdes
2 garlic cloves
3 tablespoons olive oil plus a little extra
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
500 g spaghetti (or linguine)
black pepper

Additional ingredients if you're making the red version:

450gr tomatoes, peeled, de-seeded and chopped

1 finely chopped shallot

1 red chilli pepper finely chopped, or dried red chili flakes (about a teaspoon, according to your taste)

1 tablespoon tomato puree

½ teaspoon sugar

Additional ingredient if you're making the white version:

half a glass of dry white wine or vermouth
1 red chili pepper finely chopped, or dried red chili flakes (about a teaspoon, according to your taste)

Preparation

Scrub the clams under running water, discarding any that don't close when you tap them.

If you're making the rosso version:

Bring a small amount of water (depth of 1 cm) to the boil in a large pan.  Add the clams, place lid on firmly and shake the pan over the heat for a few minutes until all the clams have opened (throw away any that refuse to open).

Remove the clams and boil the cooking liquid down until it has reduced by half and then set aside.

Now remove the meat out from about half of the clam shells, discarding the empty shells.

Heat the olive oil in another pan and heat the shallot and garlic until translucent,  - make sure they don't go brown. Add the tomatoes,chilli, tomato puree, parsley (saving a little to garnish) and bring to the boil.

Strain the reserved clam juice.  Reduce the sauce to a relatively thick consistency; add plenty of black pepper, and the sugar if it seems too tart.

Cook the spaghetti or linguine and drain.

Reheat the tomato sauce, add the shelled clams.  Pour the sauce over the pasta, add the clams still in their shells and the remaining parsley garnish; serve.

 

If you're making the white version,  

Mince the garlic and heat in a large pan with the oil. It must not go brown.

Meanwhile cook the pasta until it's very nearly ready; drain it, add a little olive oil to prevent it sticking, and cover to keep warm.

Add the chili to the garlic and oil in the pan.  Add the clams, bring up the heat and pour in the wine or vermouth; cover and shake over the heat for a few minutes until all the clams have opened (pick out and discard any that refuse to open).

Add the drained pasta to the pan and mix everything around; put the lid on for another minute or so until the pasta is ready to eat.  

Toss the parsley over, mix and serve.

A nice crusty baguette will allow you to mop up the delicious sauces!

Serrated Knives

Serrated Knives

 

• A serrated knife is used to slice through food that is hard on the outside and soft on the inside.
• The blade of a serrated bread knife should be 20-25cm long in order to slice across a large loaf in one stroke.
• Blades 12-15cm long are intended to cut tomatoes or other fruits and vegetables. Tomato knives feature a two-pronged tip.
• Best-quality serrated knives are forged, but less expensive stamped blades are also acceptable.

 

Introduction 

Serrated knives feature either a broad-set scallop edge or a somewhat toothier “piranha” edge. Only one side of the knife is ground down to produce a very thin, sharp edge, which will create the cleanest, most narrow path while cutting. 

The blade of a bread knife should be long enough to cut across a large loaf of bread in one stroke. It can bite though a loaf’s hard crust, whilst ripping though the softer crumb without crushing it. A 20cm blade is the minimum length you should consider.

Serrated knives with shorter blades cut fruits and vegetables. They can slice lemons and limes without squeezing out a drop of juice. They’re especially good for tomatoes, where the resistant skin must be pierced without crushing the tender flesh beneath. The two-pronged tip of many tomato knives can be used as a fork to move the slices to a plate. 

Materials and Construction 

A serrated knife is one of the few basic knives that do not need a forged blade with a full tang. It will never be used for the impact chopping that makes forged construction necessary in a chef’s knife. Since a serrated knife slips through relatively soft foods a stamped blade made of high-carbon stainless steel is acceptable. 

Serrated knives may have straight or offset handles. An offset handle raises your hand so that there’s no chance of knocking your knuckles on the underlying cutting board.

Chef's Knives

Chef's Knives

• The best chef’s knives are forged (rather than stamped) from high-carbon stainless steel. They can take and hold a sharp edge and recover from bending without breaking.
• The handle should be constructed from a durable and sanitary material like plastic, rubber, stainless steel or impregnated wood.
• A full tang indicates strength and balance in a traditional forged knife.
• The blade should be the right length for the task at hand. Consider having at least two, a large and a small. I recommend purchasing a 15-20 cm blade, and a 22-25cm blade.

A chef’s knife is used for chopping and mincing and is an impact tool. It is made of four parts: blade, bolster, tang and handle. Each is designed to support the blade's impact on the chopping surface. One-piece construction, in which the same blank of metal is used to make the blade, the bolster and the tang, is traditionally the strongest. 

This tool is used so frequently that it's worthwhile to investing as much as you can afford, for it will last a lifetime if properly cared for. 

Blade 

A chef’s knife blade is rigid and tapers evenly, with a smooth curve on a broad blade that ranges from 12cm to 35cm lengths. It’s helpful to have at least two different sizes, a small and a large to tackle various tasks. Don’t be afraid to handle a seemingly big, heavy chef’s knife—its weight helps you do the job, and its length means fewer pauses to bring foods back to the central spot where you are doing the chopping. 

The best metal is high carbon stainless steel. It will take a sharp edge and hold it, meaning it can be sharpened easily but won’t dull too quickly. It won’t stain, pit, rust or interact with foods. It recovers from bending without breaking and with proper care and sharpening will last a lifetime. 

Some cooks remain devoted to traditional carbon-steel knives, whilst sharpening more easily they may also rust and react unpleasantly with food if not properly cared for. 

The Bolster

The bolster, between the handle and the back of the blade, helps keep your fingers from riding up on the blade. It is the thickest part of the blade and tells you the width of the original blank of metal used for a forged knife---thicker is better. The absence of a bolster means that the knife has been stamped from a sheet of metal rather than forged. 

Tang 

The tang is the part of the blade that extends past the bolster and forms part of the handle. A full tang is the same length as the handle and is often visible between the two capping handle covers. A part or half tang is as wide as a full tang but extends only partially into the handle. 

The best chef’s knives have a full tang. A full tang balances the weight of the knife between the long heavy blade and the handle to assist the rocking motion of chopping.  

Handle 

Handles are made of natural and impregnated woods, plastics, synthetic-rubber compounds, or stainless steel and vary in their degree of durability. Natural rosewood remains the most popular for its beauty and strong resistance to splitting and cracking. (But remember, no wood should ever be left soaking in water.)  However the most durable and sanitary selection, opt for plastic, rubber, or stainless steel. 

Paring and Peeling Knives

Paring and Peeling Knives

• A standard paring knife looks like a small version of a chef’s knife, with the same slightly curved cutting edge. The blade is 6-10 cm long.
• The best paring knives are forged (rather than stamped) from high-carbon stainless steel. They can take and hold a sharp edge and recover from bending without breaking.
• A paring knife is used to cut, peel, shape or decorate foods held in the other hand It may be may be used for chopping, but is not primarily an impact tool.
• The handle should be constructed from a durable and sanitary material like plastic, rubber, stainless steel or impregnated wood.

 

Standard paring knives have the same curved, or tapered, cutting edge as a chef’s knife. Although the shape is similar, a paring knife has a different purpose. It may be used for light chopping or slicing, particularly of small items like garlic or parsley, but it is not an impact tool. 

A paring knife functions like an extension of your hand, for cutting or peeling food that is held in your other hand. You can use it to peel an apple or to shape or decorate ingredients such as turnips or mushroom caps, to scoop out potato eyes, and to trim green beans or brussels sprouts. 

Blade 

The best paring knives have high-carbon stainless steel blades, which hold a sharp edge and resist rusting. The blade should be 6-10cm long.   

Paring knives are used so frequently that you’ll find it handy to have a few of them. You might be tempted to choose inexpensive ones in order to save money. That’s a mistake. Cheap knives are usually stamped from a single sheet of metal. The blades are thin and hard and quickly become dull. Because the blade is lighter, the tool is back-heavy and requires more forward pressure to cut. But stamped blades are acceptable for simple tasks like eyeing potatoes. 

A forged knife begins as a single rough bar of red-hot metal. The bar is hammered into a shaped die to make the blade and the tang, which will form part of the knife’s handle. This one-piece construction makes an extremely strong knife with a heavy blade that can withstand strenuous cutting and slicing tasks. A forged paring knife makes paring and peeling tasks easier because it is well balanced.

Handle 

Because a paring knife functions like an extension of your hand, it should have a comfortable, well-secured handle. Handles are made of natural and impregnated woods, plastics, synthetic-rubber compounds, or stainless steel and vary in their degree of durability. Natural rosewood remains the most popular for its beauty and resistance to splitting and cracking. The most durable and sanitary are plastic, rubber, or stainless steel. 

Care 

Keep your knives’ edges as sharp as possible. Resharpen them every time you use them. Dull blades are not only difficult to use, they are dangerous. More cutting accidents occur with blunt blades than with sharp ones because of the added pressure used to bear down on the food. This is especially true of paring knives because, most often, the food you cut, peel or trim is in your hand, not on a cutting board.

Carving knives and Forks

Carving Knives and Forks

 

• Primarily used for slicing cooked meats, poultry or fish. Ideally for greatest versatility choose a blade in excess of 20 cm.
• The thickness and rigidity of the blades determine their purpose. Knives with rigid blades are used to slice hot juicy roasted meats. More flexible blades are for poultry. The most flexible blades are for slicing smoked and cured fish and ham.
• Knives with a pointed tip are designed to free meat from the bone. Round-tipped knives are best for boned meats and fish.
• Carving knife blades should have smooth or bevelled edges.
• Carving forks are designed to hold food steady for slicing. The prongs may be curved or straight, depending on the intended use.

 

Introduction 

Carving knives are designed to slice through cooked meats, poultry and fish: a rib roast of beef, a stuffed loin of pork, a leg of lamb, roasted chicken or turkey, cured ham or salmon, to name a few. The blades are usually 20 – 30 cm in length as they must be able to carve across large cuts in one sweep, to produce an attractive slice for serving. Shorter slicing knives are can be used for smaller filet roasts, tenderloins and grilled meats such as sirloin steaks. 

Blade 

The blades will vary in their width, shape of the tip, flexibility and edge, depending on the food to be carved. You might select a rigid blade with a rounded tip for large boneless roasts, a moderately flexible, pointed blade for poultry and a narrow, flexible blade with a bevelled edge for a side of smoked fish. 

Generally speaking, wider blades are used for large, hot roasts, because it takes a heftier blade to cut through the meat. Narrower blades are more suited to drier, compactly textured smoked hams or cured salmon. 

Material and Construction:

As with all good cutlery, look for carving knives and forks made from high-carbon stainless steel. Best-quality slicing knives and forks are forged, but many acceptable knives are stamped. Stamped blades are more flexible than forged blades. The handle should be constructed from a durable and sanitary material like plastic, rubber, stainless steel or impregnated wood.

Tip 

Knives with sharp, pointed tips are meant for cutting bone-in meats like grilled T-bone steaks and roasted pork shoulder. The tip is used to penetrate and free the meat surrounding the bone. Round-tipped knife blades are designed to slice large boneless meats and fish: a cured, boneless ham or side of smoked salmon. 

Buying Guides

In this short series I thought it would be useful to provide a short guide to various commonly used pieces of kitchen equipment.

 

Cutlery

Cookware

Small Appliances

 

Cutlery:

  Carving knives and Forks 

Paring Knives and Peeling Knives  

Chefs Knives 

Serrated Knives

Cookware

Cookware sets

Sauce pans

Saute pans

Wok and stir fry pots