Paul's cooking .......

Roast chicken with anchovies and rosemary

 

Roast chicken is I guess, the ultimate comfort food, and what is more, there are many variations - it need never be boring!

Here's a favourite supper style recipe, simple yet tantalisingly tasty, particularly when using a fine free-range chicken, not one of those awful supermarket birds. 

For me the greatest taste/value combination comes from Label Anglais, however a white rock or cornish red would do just as well!

A word of warning - preparation starts the day before eating!

Ingredients

1 free range chicken - approx 1.8kg

12 anchovies in olive oil

12 garlic cloves

2 branches of rosemary

small bunch of tarragon

3 french shallots

3 tablespoons creme fraiche

olive oil

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 

The chicken is prepared the day before eating, giving the wonderful flavours of anchovy, garlic and rosemary time to penetrate into the meat of the bird. Remove the chicken from the fridge. Using a sharp knife, pierce the chicken at least a dozen times, including the legs. 

Half lengthwise each of the anchovies and garlic cloves, and break the rosemary into little sprigs. Insert the anchovy half, garlic clove half and rosemary sprig into each opening. Cover the chicken with cling film and place back in the fridge overnight.

The following day remove the chicken and it's wrapping and allow the chicken to come back up to room temperature - allow at least 1 hour for this.

Meanwhile, chop the tarragon leaves and the shallots, place in a bowl and mix with the creme fraiche. Stir and mix well. Now stuff the chicken with the mixture. Rub a little olive oil over the chicken, season predominantly with the black pepper, but perhaps just a little salt (remember the anchovies will bring a saltiness to the chicken)

Pre-heat the oven to 230 C. Place the chicken in the oven and cook at the high temperature for 15 minutes, before reducing the temperature to 170 C and cooking for a further hour. After the hour, check the chicken to see if the juices are clear on the thigh, if not put back in for another few minutes.

When cooked thoroughly, remove from the oven and place on a serving plate to rest. The chicken will smell amazing, I promise you!

Whip up a quick sauce with the chicken juices in the bottom of the roasting dish by adding a good splash of wine and/or chicken stock and scraping up all the good bits. Reduce over a high heat, strain and serve separately.

This is the perfect supper dish served with chunky crusty bread or perhaps some steamed vegetables. The tarragon stuffing compliments the rosemary, garlic and anchovy flavours wonderfully.

Enjoy!

Roast duck, and a little extra.....

 

I love duck in all forms and could eat far more of it than is healthy for me! Here I'm doing a simple roast duck, very traditional and then showing a variation with spiced honey. The roasting technique is following the instructions of Joel Rubuchon.

Incidentally the female duck is nearly always tastier and plumper than the male drake, so if possible acquire a female! One other consideration is always ensure that the grease glands have been removed - check with your butcher. The glands taste very bitter and can effect the flavour of the whole duck.

Hope you enjoy them both:

Ingredients:

1 young female duck weighing around 1.8 kg with giblets if possible

4 peeled carrots

2 peeled medium onions

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 sprig of thyme

vegetable oil and a little butter

To begin, remove the duck from the fridge at least half an hour before cooking, preferably 1 hour.

Prepare the vegetables, peeled but leave whole, season them and sprinkle thyme leaves over them. Take the duck, remove the giblets and set aside, you'll need them in a minute!. Season the duck both inside and out with sea salt and black pepper. Finally lightly oil the skin of the duck with a brush.

Pre-heat the oven to 240 C

Whilst the oven is warming, take a roasting dish big enough to hold the duck and the vegetables. Lightly butter the base of the dish. Place the duck on it's side in the centre of the dish (ie resting on one wing and leg). Prop it up with the giblets, then add the vegetables to the roasting dish.

Carefully place the dish in the oven, ensuring that the neck end of the duck is facing the back wall of the oven. Close the door and roast for 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes remove the dish from the oven, and spoon off as much fat as is possible but leave the dark duck juices in the dish. Turn the duck over onto the other wing and leg and place back in the oven for another 20 minutes.

Now repeat the exercise after 20 minutes, remove the dish and spoon off the fat. Turn the duck onto it's back and give the duck a quarter turn. Put back into the oven, 10 minutes for rare, 20 minutes for medium rare to medium.

When the duck is done to your liking remove from the oven, but leave the oven on! If using the vegetables remove from the tray, drain and keep warm. Leave the giblets in the roasting dish but spoon off any excess fat once more. Place the duck on a carving board and carefully remove each of the legs. Put the legs back into the roasting dish and back into the oven for a further 10 minutes, as the legs take longer to cook!

Allow the rest of the duck to rest for 15 minutes by propping it up until near vertical but with the breasts down. Season with fleur de sel and a little pepper. Keep warm with a loose tent of foil.

After 10 minutes cooking remove the legs and season also.

Drain off the remaining fat from the roasting dish, stir in a little water if necessary to make the sauce and serve immediately.

Delicious!

Now if you wish for a slightly different take on the roast duck, see the recipe below. This recipe was produced by Joel Rubuchon and is as you might expect absolutely delicious!

This is roast duck with spiced honey:

Ingredients

As above plus:

100 g golden raisins (soaked in warm water for 1 hour)

150 g honey

1 teaspoon juniper berries

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon  coffee beans

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 teaspoon cardamom seeds (from inside the cardamom pod)

1 star anise

1 cinnamon stick

a large pinch of caster sugar

3 teaspoons butter

2 golden delicious apples, cored, peeled and sliced - each into 6 slices

a pinch of ground cinnamon powder

sea salt and black pepper

20 shelled walnut halves

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

100 ml clear chicken stock

Soak the raisins in warm water for a minimum of 1 hour before cooking.

Cook the duck as per the basic recipe above, stopping at the 50 minute point when the duck is removed from the oven for the second time.

Whilst the duck is cooking prepare the wonderful spiced honey. Pour the honey into a saucepan and warm over a medium heat. As it begins to bubble add the juniper berries, coriander seeds, coffee beans, peppercorns, cardamom seeds, star anise and cinnamon stick. Mix well with a wooden spoon, then remove from the heat.

Now, in a frying pan, heat a teaspoon of butter and add the apples in a single layer to the pan. Cook for 10 minutes, turning  them regularly. After 10 minutes, add the remaining butter, sugar cinnamon, a pinch of salt, a dash of pepper and the drained raisins and walnuts. Add 1 tablespoon of cider vinegar and cook for 2 minutes. Turn off the heat immediately.

As with the recipe above, remove the duck after 50 minutes, leave the oven on, and remove the duck legs. Coat the duck breasts and legs with the spiced honey. Place everything back in the oven as above and cook for a further 8 to 10 minutes, but re-coat the duck at least twice during this cooking period. 

Remove the duck and rest as above, place the legs into a smaller dish and back in the oven for 10 minutes.

Whilst the duck is resting, spoon the fat from the roasting dish. Add 2 teaspoons of cider vinegar and the clear chicken stock. Stir and scrape with the spatula before pouring all the contents into a saucepan and placing over a medium heat. Bring to the boil and then reduce to a simmer Check for seasoning, add the remaining teaspoon of cider vinegar and cook for a maximum of 30 seconds. Strain through a fine sieve and serve the sauce separately.

Place the duck on a serving plate with the legs and carefully arrange the prepared apples, raisin and walnuts around the wonderfully spicy, honeyed duck. Serve immediately, no doubt to wild applause!

A traditional kedgeree

 

The origins of kedgeree are hotly contested amongst those that care! Christopher Trotter, author of The Scottish Kitchen has traced the origins for the kedgeree recipe to books by the Malcoms dating back to the year 1790. However the general opinion is that it was originally an Indian dish, and indeed remains so, as evidenced by the popularity of the dish throughout the subcontinent.

What is without doubt however amongst afficionados is how tasty and delicious this dish is! Traditionally considered to be a grand breakfast, today it is considered a lunch or light supper dish. Regardless of the time of the day, it is a delightful dish to cook, serve and eat!

Ingredients: (serves 4-6 people)

500g smoked haddock

80g butter

1 onion, finely chopped

175g basmati rice

½ - ¾ tablespoon mild curry powder

150 g peas (frozen or fresh)

3 chopped hard boiled eggs

chopped parsley

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

 

Firstly take the smoked haddock, place in a large dish and cover with boiling water. Allow to stand for 5 minutes. Now drain, but reserve 900 ml of the liquid (add water if not sufficient). Take the haddock, and skin and flake into a separate bowl, removing any bones. Set aside.

 Take 30g of the butter; melt in a large pan with a little vegetable oil. Add the diced onion and cook gently until tender but not browned. Make a paste with the curry powder and a little of the reserved liquid and add to the cooked onions. Now add the rice and stir, mixing thoroughly for 2 minutes. Pour in the reserved liquid and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to a minimum, and cover with a tight fitting lid.

 Allow the rice to cook undisturbed for 8 minutes, and then stir in the flaked haddock and the peas. Cover again and allow to cook for a further 5 minutes until the rice is completely tender. If necessary add a little more water, but sparingly!

Whilst the rice is cooking hard-boil 3 eggs.

Remove from the heat, dot with the remaining butter, cover and allow to stand for 4 minutes. Now add the eggs and the parsley and fluff up the rice with a fork.

 Taste and adjust for seasoning.

Serve immediately – perhaps with some mango chutney!

A persian style lamb stew (khoresht)

This is a delicious persian styled lamb stew or khoresht which tastes fantastic. There are many combinations of fruit, meat and fowl which make these dishes irresistible. They usually contain lots of dried or fresh fruits, herbs and spices but critically are soured with the addition of lemon juice, dry limes, verjuice or pomegranate.

Running on a common theme of mine, they offer maximum taste and enjoyment for the diner, and minimum effort from the cook - the perfect combination!

If possible prepare the stew the day before eating - the flavours will develop wonderfully be greatly enhanced the following day!

Ingredients

750 g lamb shoulder (off the bone)

80 ml good quality olive oil

2 brown onions, diced

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon dried cumin

4 cardamom pods, split, seeds removed and crushed

2 tea spoons sea salt

400 ml chicken stock

120 g pitted prunes

120 g dried apricots

1 teaspoon caster sugar

1 dried lime

juice of 1 lime

1/4 teaspoon of saffron threads, dissolved in 1 tablespoon boiling water

1 very large handful chopped mint leaves

30 g roasted almonds

a little coriander

400 g butternut squash - peeled and diced (2cm dice)

sea salt and a little freshly ground black pepper

extra virgin olive oil

As with all stews of this nature we begin by browning the lamb. Cut the lamb into 4 cm chunks. We're using shoulder as it's not lean, and we'll end up with lovely melting streaks of fat running through the meat in the final dish!. Heat some good quality olive oil in a heavy bottomed pan and fry the lamb in batches, ensuring a good, even colouring - although clearly not burnt, over a medium to high heat. When browned remove each batch and set aside.

Add a little more olive oil if necessary into the pan used for browning, and add the onions, browning gently over a medium heat. When soft and lightly browned, add the spices and sea salt and stir until the delicious fragrance is released. 

Now return the lamb and any juices to the pan, add the chicken stock, and simmer over a low heat, covered for 1 hour. Stir occasionally. Now add the prunes, apricots, sugar, dried lime, lime juice and saffron water. Cover and continue to simmer for another 30 minutes, or until the lamb is very tender.

Whilst the stew is in its' final 30 minutes or so of simmering, let's cook the butternut squash. Preheat the oven to 200 C. Cut the squash into 2 cm diced cubes, mix with the extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and a little freshly ground black pepper. Place on a baking tray and bake in the oven for 20 to 25 minutes, until soft and lightly browned.

Add the squash to the stew and mix carefully. If possible, place lid on and set aside for the following day.

30 minutes before serving, heat the stew over a medium/low heat. Add in the mint leaves and stir carefully. Just prior to serving garnish the dish with the roasted almonds and a little coriander.

This dish is fabulous served with saffron flavoured steamed rice. Additional accompaniments could include pan fried  and lightly spiced egg plant, or steamed green vegetables. Tabbouleh would be great on the side also!

The perfect dish for supper amongst friends, minimum cooking effort required, and little time away from the table!

Enjoy!

Alternative persian lamb recipe

Beef mussaman curry (gaeng mussaman neua)

 
 

Mussaman curries originate in the predominantly Muslim regions of Southern Thailand. As such they make liberal use of dried spices. Beef is the most popular choice of meat in their curry, but duck and chicken can be substituted if desired. However for me the combination of beef, coconut and the various spices works best.Tofu can be used for a vegetarian option.

This curry will be wonderfully rich, aromatic and full of warm spices!

The recipe is sufficient for 2 people and cooking time is approximately 2 hours (not including making the curry paste)

 

Ingredients:

250 ml coconut cream

300 g beef sirloin, cubed

500 ml coconut milk

3 tablespoons of mussaman paste (see below)

2 cardamom seeds, roasted

1 tablespoon roasted peanuts (not salted)

3 smallish potatoes, peeled and quartered

1 sweet white onion, peeled and quartered

2 bay leaves, torn

a little salt

1 tablespoon grated palm sugar

2 tablespoons of fish sauce

2 shallots, thinly sliced and deep fried until crisp

 

for the mussaman paste:

            ½ teaspoon coriander seeds, roasted and ground

            2 teaspoon cloves, roasted and ground

            2 teaspoon cinnamon, roasted and ground

2 teaspoon fennel seeds, roasted and ground

½ teaspoon peppercorns, roasted and ground

2 teaspoon cardamom seeds, roasted and ground

36 dried red chillies, de-seeded, soaked and drained

5 coriander roots

4 tablespoons, finely chopped lemon grass

2 tablespoons finely chopped galangal

5 tablespoons chopped garlic

7 tablespoons of chopped shallots

4 bay leaves

125 ml vegetable oil

 

Place all the dry spices in a wok and roast gently until toasted and fragrant. Allow to cool and then grind into a fine powder. Take your wok and heat up a little oil and roast the chillies, coriander roots, lemon grass, galangal, garlic and shallots until soft and aromatic. Using a blender, puree the roasted herbs and work in the vegetable oil, the powdered spices and the bay leaves until a beautifully smooth paste is achieved. The smell will be amazing!

This will make approximately 450 g of curry paste. However it freezes really well, so freeze in ice cube containers for future use.

 Now to the curry itself!

Bring the coconut cream to the boil in a wok. Immediately add the sirloin beef, reduce to a low simmer and allow to cook for an hour or until the beef is very tender.

Now in another pan, stir fry the curry paste (3 tablespoons) and the coconut milk over a medium heat for 5 minutes. Add this mixture to the coconut cream and beef and simmer gently for a further 30 minutes.

Whilst the curry is simmering, dry roast the cardamom seeds and the peanuts and set aside. Add the potatoes, onion, and bay leaves to the curry, with the cardamom seeds and peanuts. Continue to simmer for another 15 minutes until the potatoes are tender.

Finely slice the shallots and quickly deep fry them in hot vegetable oil until golden brown and crispy. Drain well and set aside.

Finally add the fish sauce and sugar, stir, taste and season further with a little salt if required.

Serve the curry in a serving dish, garnished with the deep fried shallots and a sprig of coriander alongside some fragrant thai steamed rice.

This is a marvelously rich curry, not as spicy as red or green, yet wonderfully aromatic with deep warm spice flavours. Delicious!

Siew yoke (siu yoke) - crispy roast pork belly

 

I have wanted to write about, and cook siew yoke for quite some time, and finally I've managed it! Now belly pork is one of nature's great treats, and what interests me most is the many ways around the world local people prepare it. Here in Britain, long slow cooking is considered to achieve the greatest results, however with this recipe it's a relatively short blast of extreme heat that produces the desired taste and textures.

I have to say that this is not necessarily the most authentic of siew yoke recipes as it omits the fermented red bean curd, but I don't think anyone will be disappointed with the end product.

It is perfect served hot as part of a Chinese meal, or indeed makes the most brilliant canapes when served cold with a spicy little dipping sauce!

Ingredients

1 fairly large piece of belly pork, skin on (say 1kg)

2 tablespoons of coarse sea salt

2 tablespoons of ground five spice (shop bought or home made- see below)

Let's start with the five spices which are surprisingly easy to prepare and delicious when made fresh!

Ingredients for five spices

1.5 table spoon ground  star anise

2.5 teaspoon ground fennel seeds

1.5 teaspoon ground cinnamon

0.5 teaspoon ground Szechwan pepper

0.5 teaspoon ground cloves

This will make more 5 spices than called for in the recipe, but will obviously keep, stored in an air-tight jar. Simply blend all of the above ground spices. If not available ground, grind in a spice grinder or even the coffee grinder!

The key to this dish is the crunchy, crispy delicious crackling. Now there are numerous theories and practices about getting good crackling, using boiling water, vinegar etc, but to me the most important factor is having the pork skin as dry as possible before cooking.  

Firstly bring your piece of pork belly up to room temperature by allowing it to stand out of the fridge for at least an hour, uncovered. This also helps the drying process. If not already scored, do so with a stanley knife, but be careful. We want to expose the fat under the skin, but not cut down into the meat itself. When at room temperature dry off the skin with kitchen towels ( it should be pretty dry by now anyway). 

Take the sea salt and the ground five spice and mix well together and then work the mixture into the scored surface of the belly pork. Work it in really well, effort here will reward you with amazing crackling! Ensure a very good coating across all the skin and leave aside for a further two hours minimum, longer if possible.

An hour and a half before serving (if serving hot) heat up the oven to  200 C. Place the pork on a rack in the middle of the oven, and a large  deep tray on the shelf below to catch all the juices and fat (which can be used another time - delicious!). Close the door and leave to cook at 200 C for 40 minutes

After 40 minutes change the oven settings to grill (or remove pork if using a separate grill) and grill at about 60% of maximum heat setting (you may have to modify settings depending on grill and oven size). Grill for a minimum of 20 minutes, but monitor the pork as although we want wonderful charred crackling, we don't want to cremate the pork. Don't be too concerned though if the salt/five spices mix turns black - it should do so, it will be scraped off as you will see.

After a minimum of 20 minutes carefully remove the pork and place on a chopping board to rest a little. ( I hope your kitchen will nor be too smokey, but that's a possibility - get those windows open!)

Allow the pork to rest for 10 minutes, then using a reasonably heavy chef's knife, scrape away the charred and burnt salt/five spices mixture. What you should have left is a beautifully golden, rough crackling. Now chop or slice (using a sharp serrated knife if not chopping) into those all too familiar chunks of golden crispy crackling, with delicious soft unctious pork and fat underneath. 

If serving immediately, pile into a large bowl and bring to the table with steamed rice and stir fried vegetables - I assure you it will taste fantastic, and be infinitely better than takeaway or shop bought!

This dish can also be served as a delightful cold canape, just ensure the chunks are bite sized, and a dipping sauce of soy, fresh ginger and fresh red chillies is offered alongside! Salty, spicy, crunchy and soft - all at the same time!

Classic Beef Wellington

 

In my opinion this is one of the great British dishes, and this version, whilst lengthy in its' preparation produces the most fantastic dish suitable for a really special occasion - New Year's Day lunch perhaps or a special family gathering. 

The combination of beef, puff pastry and the delicious coating of mushrooms and foie gras parfait is magical, a real joy!

Ingredients

1 beef filet – 30cm long about 2kg

For the pancakes

110g flour

sea salt 

2 medium eggs

300ml wholefat milk

a little chopped parsley

vegetable oil

For the duxelles

60g unsalted butter

70g finely diced shallots 

750g finely chopped mixed mushrooms

Sea Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the parfait

250g trimmed chicken livers

50g unsalted butter,

50g foie gras trimmings

200g softened unsalted butter

Cognac or Madeira to taste

100ml double cream

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

 750g shop bought puff pastry 

 

Let us begin by making the pancakes. Sift the flour and salt into a bowl and add the beaten eggs and milk to form a smooth batter. Now stir in the parsley and rest the mix for 30 minutes.

Heat a little oil in a 30cm pan. Pour in a ladle of batter, just enough for a thin crepe style pancake, fry and turn the pancake. Repeat and make a total of six pancakes.

Now we can turn our attention to the lovely beef filet! It is important for the meat to cook uniformly so we must only use the middle cut of the fillet.  Ideally your butcher can prepare the frilet for you, however if you wish to do it yourself, here’s how:

Cut off the châteaubriand end and the filet mignon end and reserve for a treat on another day. Trim the silverskin lying over the middle-cut and any fat. The result should be a piece of lean fillet 30cm long, weighing just over 1kg. Tie up the fillet at intervals with kitchen string, so that it has a consistent shape along its length.

Take a heavy bottomed pan and heat the oil until it smokes - it must be very hot. Sear the meat on all sides, so that it colours quickly but does not cook. Don't forget to do the ends, too. When seared season with a little sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Now set aside, rest, cool, cut and discard the string. Stand on kitchen towel to dry the surface.

Now for the duxelles. Melt the butter in a large pan and sweat the shallots in butter until softened, but not coloured over a medium heat. Add the finely chopped mushrooms and fry over a high flame for two or three minutes.  Reduce the heat right down, season the mushrooms and cook until most of the moisture has evaporated. This should take approximately 20 minutes. The mixture should look "dry" and lightly browned. Set aside.

Now take the trimmed chicken livers and sweat on a low heat in 50g butter. Add 50g foie gras and take off the heat. Remove from the pan and puree in a blender and pass through a sieve. Now take the softened butter, add a little cognac or madeira and blend with the chicken livers and foie gras. Season lightly and add the double cream which has been whisked until it holds its shape. Mix with the duxelles and then place in fridge till firm.

I’m not the greatest at puff pastry so always buy the best quality pre-prepared pastry. Roll out out the pastry on a floured, cool surface to about 3mm thick, in a rectangular shape approximately 60cm long by 40cm wide. Trim the edges.

Now is the construction time!

Lay the pancakes overlapping on a work surface so that they cover an area large enough to wrap up the fillet. Spread enough duxelles over one side of the fillet to cover it generously and lay the covered surface on the pancake.

Now carefully spread more duxelles over the fillet to cover it completely. You'll need at least 350g for a 30cm fillet. Now wrap the pancakes over the fillet, including the ends. The pancakes will prevent the meat from making the pastry soggy whilst baking.

Lay the wrapped fillet in the middle of the sheet of rolled pastry. Make two cuts at each of the long ends to help envelop the meat. Brush the pastry edges with beaten egg. Fold the ends over the meat, then the sides, and seal the pastry edges well. Try to ensure there are no air holes, or gaps between the pastry and the covered fillet. Turn the beef Wellington on to an oiled baking sheet so that the join is hidden underneath.

Brush the pastry with an egg glaze. Scratch the surface of the pastry with a fork both for presentation but also to help it absorb the glaze. Brush with a second coat of glaze.

Make three holes in the top of the wellington to allow the steam to escape. The holes should cut through the pancake and duxelles layers. After all that hard work, set aside and rest yourself and the Wellington for 15 minutes to allow (you and) the pastry to relax.

If you are serving later the Wellington can now be stored in the fridge.

When ready to bake, pre-heat the oven to 220 C. Now bake for around 25 minutes, by which time the pastry should be cooked through, and most importantly the meat between rare and medium. Much longer and there is a risk that the meat will shrink, steam and be overdone.

After baking, allow the meat to settle for 5 minutes before serving. Slice off the pastry at one end and bring to the table for your guest or family to admire.

After receiving generous praise carve slices of the wellington 4cm-5cm thick. Serve with sauteed potatoes and green vegetables of choice. Perhaps a little horseradish sauce also!

Enjoy and savour this great, classic, rich dish!

 

Steamed razor clams with pancetta and broad beans

The long razor clams are often ignored in the UK, yet in Spain and Portugal loved and used as extensively as palourdes and mussels. The key, as with most shellfish, is simplicity and freshness. Here's a simple but delicious recipe that combines very well the sweetness of the razor clam with broad beans, thyme and pancetta.

Try it, it's delicious and very interesting to serve to friends, a perfect starter - they won't be disappointed!

Ingredients 

1kg live razor clams 
1/2 glass of dry white wine 
A few sprigs of thyme 
3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 
A squeeze of lemon juice
1tbsp chopped parsley, reserving the stalks 
250g broad beans, shelled 
4tbsp olive oil 
150g cubed pancetta  
60g butter 
Freshly ground black pepper

Start with the razor clams. Rinse the razor clams well in cold, running water for a couple of minutes. Like all shellfish discard any that don't close when handled. Place in a pot with the wine, thyme, garlic, salt and parsley stalks. Cover and cook over a high heat for a few minutes, stirring occasionally, until all the shells have opened. Drain in a colander and leave to cool.

Whilst cooking the clams, preheat the oven to 130C. Carefully remove the clams from the shells, keeping the shell intact. Cut away the central, dark, intestinal sac and discard. Chop each clam into 4 or 5 pieces, place back into the open shell and arrange the shells on a baking tray. Keep warm in the low oven.

Now cook the shelled broad beans in boiling salted water for 2 minutes, then drain in a colander. Heat a small amount of olive oil in a pan and cook the pancetta on a relatively high heat for 3-4 minutes until crisp. Add the cooked broad beans,a squeeze of lemon juice, butter and chopped parsley, toss and season with freshly ground pepper.

Now, place the clams in their shells on warmed serving plates and spoon the pancetta/broad beans mixture over, and serve immediately.

Enjoy with some nice warm crusty bread!

Steamed whole sea bass with ginger and spring onion

A deliciously healthy way of eating fish, subtle asian flavours that do not overpower the delightful sweet, delicate moist flesh of sea bass. This dish is an excellent example of how steaming preserves purity of flavour and texture.

Ingredients

1 whole fresh wild sea bass (weighing 800 g - 1kg )

1 leaf chines white cabbage (cut into 4 squares)

60 ml chicken stock

60 ml shaoshing wine (rice wine)

5 cm fresh ginger - peeled and finely julienned

2 teaspoons white sugar

3 tablespoons light soy sauce

splash sesame oil

3 spring onions - finely julienned

60 ml groundnut oil

good handful coriander leaves

small pinch ground white pepper

Purchase the freshest, wild sea bass possible (the freshest fish will still be stiff from rigor mortis, have no fish smell, clear eyes and red gills) and ask the fishmonger to scale and clean the fish for you.

With a sharp knife, make 3 diagonal slits into the side of the fish and then score in the opposite direction to make a diamond pattern. Turn the fish over and repeat on the other side.

Bring a large steamer pot of water to the boil. Take a shallow heatproof dish and arrange the cabbage squares, before placing the fish on top. Combine the chicken stock and half the light soy sauce and pour over the fish. Now sprinkle half of the ginger over the body of the fish.

Place the dish into the steamer basket over the boiling water, put the lid on and steam for 10 to 12 minutes, until the fish is cooked. The flesh should be white through to the bone (which is exposed by the cuts). If the flesh is still translucent, replace the lid firmly and steam for a further minute or two.

Remove the steamer basket from the steamer and carefully remove the dish from the basket. Sprinkle the sugar carefully over the body of the fish. Quickly combine the remaining light soy sauce and the sesame oil and drizzle over the fish. Sprinkle the remaining ginger and half the spring onions over the fish.

Carefully heat the groundnut oil in a small pot until it reaches smoking point. The temperature of the oil is critical - it must be hot enough to scald the ginger and spring onions. Slowly and carefully drizzle the very hot oil over the fish.

Sprinkle the coriander and remaining spring onions over the fish, season lightly with the white pepper, and serve immediately.

Delicious as the centre piece of a banquet, or served simply with boiled white rice, and stir fried bok choy or gai choy!

Enjoy!

Marinated figs with balsamic vinegar

As Summer starts to slip away and the nights draw in, the second crop of figs are ready for eating, and what a delight they are, sweeter and heavier than the first crops of June!

Ingredients

(for 4)

12 fresh, ripe purple figs

A good bunch of fresh thyme, leaves and flowers

A good bunch of marjoram leaves

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

juice from 1 lemon

60 ml high quality virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons high quality balsamic vinegar

Take your ripe figs which if truly fresh will appear surprisingly heavy for their size. Cut off the top stem and base of each fig, and slice carefully with a sharp knife, horizontally into 1 cm thick slices. Now place in a bowl.

Finely chop about 3/4's of thyme and marjoram and scatter liberally over the arranged fig slices. Season with the sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. In a bowl, mix the olive oil and the lemon juice and drizzle over the figs.

Arrange the figs carefully on a single serving plate ensuring all the juices and olive oil are used. Carefully spoon the balsamic vinegar over the figs and finally scatter a few whole herb leaves and the thyme flowers over the top.

Allow to sit in a cool place (not the fridge) for an hour before serving.

A delicious starter course or light lunch!